Airtex Electric Fuel Pump E2471

For the money I have no issues 👍🏼

I purchased this fuel pump based on price and ratings to replace the aging pump in a 2001 Mazda 626. Installation was easy. Cleaned the tank as advised. Ran fine for the first 5 months. Then became intermittent. Finally after sitting for a few weeks, would not run again. On removal, found the supplied electrical connector was loose and metal filings in the pump reservoir. Replaced with the OEM Denso pump.

Hello! First off when you get the fuel pump the instructions say two things. First, if you don’t replace the strainer at the same time, you have no warranty. I used the Delphi FS0092 Fuel Pump Strainer that I ordered with the pump. Secondly, no oil pressure may also be a cause of the pump not operating. I have a 2001 Ford Crown Vic CVPI P71. The car would not start. I checked that little “tire valve” looking fitting on the fuel rail and NO gas came squirting out like it usually does. I squirted starting fluid in the air intake (don’t blow yourself up!) and the car started okay and ran until the starting fluid was gone. I checked the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box on the passenger side fender well in the engine compartment and it was okay. If you haven’t noticed, most of the pronged fuses have a little metal exposed on top where you can touch your test light to see if they have current, rather than pulling them out to check each one. That fuse was okay so I went to the three relay box located on top of the driver’s side fender well cover on the other side of the engine compartment. The relay box lifts off and then, if you’re like me, you will be stumped on how to get the thing apart until it occurs to you it pulls out from the wire end if you release the tab on the other end. ALL my relays were the same in the car, but I swapped out the fuel pump relay with the horn relay (I blew the horn to make sure that relay worked first.), and then blew the horn to see if the fuel pump relay was good. The last thing I did was to get my rubber mallet and give the fuel tank a whack on the bottom of it, and on the back of it from inside the trunk. Once, during all this testing I could hear the pump come on and the car started briefly, but that was the only time. In a perfect world you should hear the pump come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to the on position. I read somewhere that the pump ONLY gets current briefly when the key is first turned on, so if you’re planning on checking current to the pump at the tank, better have someone around to hit the key for you. Everyone I spoke to said the fuel pump going out is a common problem with these cars. Okay, if you have more than about a third of a tank of gas, you are probably going to have to pump some out through the filler tube with a hand pump or maybe drain it through the fuel pump assembly when you loosen the bolts (not recommended). Gas will catch fire, you will have some on you, so no open flame, sparks, or visitors with cigarettes. Jack the car up and put it on jack stands, then crawl underneath and the tank and other stuff will be readily accessible. I could have used a two foot long extension to get the tank strap nuts off the studs, but had to use several extensions that I have lying around to get to the tank strap nuts. Yes, I HAD to drop the tank about an inch to get to the electrical connector on top of the tank on the passenger side of the car. This connector comes apart easily if you take a small mirror and see the clip on the blind side of the connector. Take the connector off and then there are two metal clips that hold the wire to the tank flange. Of course, the one clip is on the top of the tank and somewhat difficult to reach with a very long screwdriver, but doable. Bring this wire all the way out. The main wire to the fuel tank has a connector up under the body sheet metal where you can feel it, but not see it. Once you figure out how the clip works, mine was easier to get apart than it was to get back together, it will come apart. Listen for the click when you reinstall this one, you don’t want it loose or coming apart later. By the way, I forgot to unscrew the fuel filler tube before I let the tank down, but there must have been enough flex in the rubber connector to “forgive” my actions! When you put a block under the tank to jack it down, make sure the block does NOT cover the rubber tank strap holders. These holders have to be removed from the straps (not the car) and the tank to allow the straps to be moved out of the way and the tank to drop. The fuel lines that attach to the fuel tank sender/pump assembly have those little metal “u” clips on them that just kinda hinge up and apart, but you have to use your fuel line tool to get the lines off. If you don’t have one already, it’s a must have for Fords. This is the one I have and it works well Lisle 39400 Angled Disconnect Tool Set ($15). I just used a piece of rope to tie the lines up to the bottom of the car to keep the fuel from running out. I was able to unscrew the sender bolts and pull the fuel sender/pump assembly out of the car without removing the exhaust, but, it probably would have been easier if I had tied the exhaust pipe over first. Also, my rubber exhaust pipe hangers were either stretched out to the max or missing entirely! You may wish to replace all the rubber exhaust pipe hangers while you’re under there. There are four right by where you’re working and one at either end of the tailpipes. The generics are about $5 at the auto parts store, and fit, kinda. Take some WD-40 with you! I memorized the position of everything when I removed the sender, but quickly forgot how I had removed it when I went to put it back in. Just make sure you don’t bend the float wire on reinstallation and that its positioned correctly. Once you have everything out of the car, it’s just a matter of removing the old fuel pump off of the sender assembly and installing the new one in its place. I was tempted to use the existing short piece of rubber hose, but replaced it anyway when I put the new pump on. I use those pvc pipe cutters with the guillotine blade for a clean and even cut of the hose. The pump electrical connection was NOT a direct fit. You have to use the included conversion plug to connect the new pump to your existing wiring. Just tuck the slack up out of the way on the side of the bracket. There are a bunch of gaskets and O-rings packed with the kit, but I did not see a large flat one like I had on the fuel sender assembly, so I just reused the one I had on re-installation. You may wish to find a new gasket to have on hand, just in case. Not sure if one of the O-rings would have worked. So much for the easy part! Just reassemble everything in reverse order and you’re done! Well, unless you spend more time trying to get the nuts back on the tank strap studs! After an hour of struggling I was like, Hey, it almost seems like the dang stud has gone up into the car! Well, it HAD! The studs are on metal “spring holders” and they DO go up into the car just enough so the nuts won’t start! If you take your fingernail and hold them down a thread or two, the nuts will start quite easily! Once back together, the car kicked and ran at the first twist of the key! Good luck!

the pump came quickly and fit well however it only lasted 1 week before failing completely. It was a complete waste of money and time putting it in. It didn’t even pump a full tank of gas. The product description said that each unit is tested but I very much doubt this is true. I will have to think long and hard before buying any more auto parts through Amazon